Friday, December 26, 2008

Driving - The Costa Rican Video Game


As I speak to people about their first visit to Costa Rica, the subject of driving always comes up. Driving a rental car gives one independence, allowing for spontaneous stops and plan changes. I personally find driving in Costa Rica to be a relatively safe way to see the country - Pacific, Caribean, volcanos and rain forest - provided you follow some common sense guide lines.
1) Plan your daily drive so you arrive well before dark. Morning drives are the best. As one gets toward the end of the day there seems to be a curious custom where everyone in the village comes out of their homes and walk on the road - bicycles, pets, families with babies, etc. Though certainly navigable, I prefer less distraction and try to drive before, say 4 pm.
2) One must look at driving in Costa Rica as a bit of a video game, and a team effort at that. I drive and the passenger navigates, both of us with full attention on the road. At any given time you might round a turn and find a cattle drive, ox cart, road work in progress, a stopped car (people in C.R. will just stop on the road in the middle of their lane and open up a conversation with a pedestrian or another vehicle, no attempt being made to pull to the side). Also there are well marked one lane bridges. Each bridge is marked on one side or the other with a yield sign telling you who has the right of way. No matter who is supposed to yield, proceed with caution.
3) All speed is marked in KPH. Watch your speed and have the navigator watch for changes in the speed limit - i.e. speed traps. An officer will be pulled off the side of the road with radar gun in hand. Oncoming traffic will often warn you with a flash of their headlights but I find it easier to just stay within the speed limits. If you get caught they do not come after you but wave you over and write you a ticket. There is much debate as to how to handle a ticket. The opportunity always exists to pay on the spot, essentially a bribe to the "underpaid officer". Usually about 20$ Ask the car rental company what they prefer you to do. Many just want you to bring the ticket to them when you are done with the rental and they take care of it. Ask your rental company.
4) A bit about safety and security while traveling by car. Crime is crime the world over and while Costa Ricans (Ticos) are wonderful people there still is the chance that you may be a target. So make yourself less of a target. There is very little violent crime but theft certainly occurs in direct proportion to opportunity. Wear little or no jewelry so as not to call attention. Always lock the car doors and leave nothing visible in your car, especially in tourist areas or on surfing beaches. Many parking lots of restaurants, etc will have a guard. I try to give him 500 colones (a dollar) to keep a special eye on my car if at all possible. There is also a trick used by thieves, especially in San Jose where after you rent your car or get gas, someone walks up and punctures a tire. They follow you and when you pull over to fix it they offer to help and quietly take your things. I do not know of anyone this has happened to but it is publicized. If you get a flat and are concerned, just get to a public area, like a gas station or somewhere where there are other people.
5) The roads. Ah yes, the roads. While it seems that the general road conditions have improved greatly over the past few years, be ready for adverse conditions. Pot holes that swallow small vehicles still exist, especially on gravel roads in remote areas during the green season. I recommend a 4X4 during the wet months, not a bad idea during the dry months also! Painted lines marking center stripe and lanes are rare. Hazard signs are good, become familiar with "stop", "yield", "slow' etc before leaving. Signs to distant towns are fair but it is easy to miss a turn or take the wrong one. The good news is the Ticos are happy to give you directions and get you back on your way.

So, driving in Costa Rica is a great way to see a beautiful country. Just heed the rules!

Pura Vida! Carl

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